www.brumster.com
Last updated on
12/07/2004
Fitting a K-Series
C855 YVM - Robin Hood Exmo

Left Hand Engine Mount
I would suggest you start with the left hand engine mount first, since it's better to get this side as low as possible then work the right-hand engine mount afterwards to suit. Before you go dropping the engine in, you will need to put back some strength into the left hand engine bay floor panel. The easy way to do this is take a length of 1" square tubing and run it the full length of the panel, from the passenger bulkhead to the front crossmember. Weld it to the panel on both sides of the base at regular spacing with 2" welds. When this is done, have a good jump up and down on it and you will immediately see the strength you've put back in (in fact, you've probably made it stronger than the original!).

LH engine mount (closeup) Here you can clearly see the 1" square section tube reinforcing the floor panel, and the engine mount (standard Jag E-Type as purchased from Caterham) is bolted up through the double-skinned floor tight up against it. If you look closely you can also see where the mounting bracket itself has been cut, opened out and welded up again to take into account the extra 10 degree of lean in our particular engine.
LH engine mount (closeup) Same thing but viewed from above. Again, you can see the engine mount rubber itself and the cut & weld job done on the actual bracket itself (Caterham supplied).
View from front of car The alternator takes front row here, but you can see (indicated) the square-section reinforcement, the engine mount to the back and also the tie-bar mounting bracket on the right hand side of the picture.
View from above A view of the engine mount from above...

<<< Previous | Next >>>