Last updated on 12/07/2004
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Fitting a K-Series
C855 YVM - Robin Hood Exmo
Positioning
So how do you position the engine? Well, to follow Mr.Chapmans ideal, we want the engine as far back in the chassis as possible to give even weight balance. In truth, of course, the bulkhead and other various fittings stop us from bringing the engine back too far. The single deciding factor was the gearbox mount - we used the 4-speed mounting point but with a 5-speed gearbox. This left the engine in front of it in good position, and the gearbox a little forward (but not too much). It would mean repositioning the gearstick forward a few inches... and the propshaft would need lengthening.
In this picture you can see the rear of the head is roughly 2 or 3 inches from the bulkhead panel, although the dizzy cap is the closest part.
Another picture of the same thing, just a little further out. The various cabling is part of the engine sub-loom and is not in it's final position!
Here you can see, from the right hand side of the car, the clearance between the block and the firewall, with the bellhousing clearly in sight. Notice all the engine loom multiplugs are clearly labelled with their purpose!
Gearbox/Propshaft
We moved to a 5-speed gearbox but used the 4-speed mounting point. This meant the propshaft had to be lengthened by 3.5 inches, which was done by a specialist prop refabricator in Worcester for £25.
A lot of people have asked where we got the bellhousing from, to mate a K-Series to a Ford type 9/N - well, it was originally for a Sylva Fury so we think it was either
a one-off special or else it was actually made/sold by Sylva. There are, however, plenty of other manufacturers making bellhousings to do the job - just
scour the latest "Which Kit?" or "CCC" magazines...
Here you can see the driveshaft and how it needs lengthening to fit the newly-positioned gearbox, which is now slightly more forward than Robin Hood originally intended.
A close view of the back of the gearbox unit - as you can see, it is now further forward of the original hole left for the gearlever to exit through.
This will mean a new hole will need to be cut further forward, and the old one blanked off and trimmed. Okay, so we've got to reach a little further forward for the gearstick but having tried it, it's not too bad.
Engine
The sump itself is (thankfully) a little shallower than the Pinto version, and is angled over an extra 10 degrees due to our 'special' bellhousing (our bellhousing was a one-off for a Sylva Fury which canted the engine over an additional 10 degrees from standard). With a conventional bellhousing, the sump would probably appear more level.
A general view of the engine; doesn't really show much as most of the ancillaries/piping are not yet fitted but you can see there's plenty of room in front of the engine (our radiator is fitted in the nosecone).
The front view shows a little more clearly the angle at which the K-Series sits - this is perfectly normal. In this example, ours is canted over an extra 10 degrees due to a special bellhousing we used, but otherwise this is pretty much how it should look.
This diagram shows you what you end up with in terms of the positions of the engine mounts and the angle at which the engine sits. The diagram is as viewed from the front of the car.
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